Frequently Asked Questions

Basically, yes. The VSF/r is controlled by a socket-mounted timer. Its power supply is plugged into a socket-mounted timer, which is plugged into your socket. The socket-mounted timer can also be a Wi-Fi timer. There are many different types available to buy. You can choose one that best suits your home automation system and your needs. If you then use the timer’s app to set on/off times – and perhaps even an astro function – you can easily control the chicken flap via Wi-Fi. The timer cuts off the power > the flap closes. The timer switches the power back on > the flap opens. It’s that simple. You can also open and close your flap manually by simply switching the socket on and off via the app. Wi-Fi uses a lot of power if you want to use it effectively. You’ll therefore need a socket. You’ll also need Wi-Fi reception to operate the flap remotely, as it must be connected to your home Wi-Fi network. With the VSF/r and your Wi-Fi socket, you have a simple and affordable solution that’s just right for you. It’s important that your Wi-Fi timer is located within the range of your home Wi-Fi network.

You’ll need this if you want to run the device from a mains socket. Many people don’t trust batteries, or don’t want to have to change them ‘often’. Whilst this isn’t really necessary very often with our devices (every 1.5–2 years, or possibly even longer), you can still connect one. The ST mains adaptor, and therefore the socket too, must be placed in a dry indoor location. You can also leave the batteries in the VSB, Doorkeeper VSD and Doorkeeper VSE models and keep them active. They will then kick in should the mains power fail. However, even then, these batteries must be replaced every few years for safety’s sake. Another reason might be that you want the flap to open a little faster. At 12V, the motor runs slightly faster. You can also connect the solar battery from your off-grid system to the power supply unit’s connection in the Doorkeeper, provided you use one. However, voltages of up to around 14V may be present here. You should therefore keep the weight of the gate within limits (up to a maximum of approx. 1kg) so as not to put too much strain on the motor. (Voltages exceeding 14V, and especially those above 15V, are not permitted.

As the name suggests, a device with a solar cell should be exposed to sunlight. Heavily shaded areas, corners in the shade, or indoor locations are poor installation sites. However, a spot on an external wall that receives 2–3 hours of direct sunlight per day is sufficient. Ideally, it should face south. A small transparent canopy is also an option. The units do not charge the batteries to full capacity in one go; instead, the batteries are gently buffered/charged continuously and maintained at a level that allows them to last for a few weeks or a few months without sunlight – specifically, for example, during the winter months.

In particular, ensure that the doorkeeper has an ‘SA function – automatic closing’ feature. This is specified in the product description. This applies to the VSB-SA, Doorkeeper VSD and Doorkeeper VSE (and their respective solar-powered versions). The VSF/r can also be closed manually, provided it is controlled via a Wi-Fi socket, using whose app you can switch the socket on and off remotely. The VSF, as well as the BZ1 and BZ3, cannot be closed manually. They operate exclusively via the integrated mechanical timer.

No. The VSF, BZ1 and BZ3 operate exclusively via the integrated mechanical timer. Any pins or connectors on the circuit board are not intended for connecting a sensor. With the VSF/r, it again depends on your socket-mounted timer. If you have a Wi-Fi timer that also has an ‘astro function’, you can use it to control this Doorkeeper virtually by twilight.

There could be various reasons for this. The most likely is that the cord is not routed correctly. Please check how the cord runs through the appliance and how it is wound round the motor shaft. The cord must approach the motor shaft from below (at the rear). It must not cross over the shaft from above (at the front). So if you can see the cable running over the shaft, something is wrong. Please refer to our video tutorials and knowledge base articles. The correct cable route is printed on the circuit board. For VSD/VSE models, it is important that the cord runs to the left of both rollers, beneath the motor mount, and through the round metal eyelet on the limit switch. Other possible causes include faulty light sensors. If the flap closes when you short-circuit pins 3 and 4 with a metal object (VSD for at least 6 seconds), it must also close. This is the input for the external clock, which takes precedence. If the flap now closes, the sensor is highly likely to be the cause of the fault. Furthermore, it may be that the motor is faulty or that no power is reaching the circuit board. Please contact us and send us some photos of the inside of the unit.

The sensor reacts to light. Depending on the current lighting conditions, it needs to be darkened to a greater or lesser extent for the ‘dark’ signal to be registered. The response time for all devices fitted with a light sensor is 1–3 seconds for ‘dark’ and 10–12 seconds for ‘light’. Take a black cap—for example, from a felt-tip pen—and place it over the internal sensor. After a few seconds, the device should react and close. If you have connected an external sensor, you must, of course, cover it to block out the light. To do this, take a dark piece of fabric, for example, and wrap it around the sensor, or hold it in your hand and put it in a jacket pocket. During the day, the sensor must be completely and thoroughly shielded from light. At dusk, a less extensive shielding is often sufficient.
What can happen: In the case of a VSB with an external sensor that is already a few years old, a short circuit in the sensor may mean that darkness is no longer detected. Disconnect a cable from the external sensor. The cap over the internal sensor will now ensure that darkness is detected, and the device will close. In this case, the external sensor is faulty. However, if the circuit does not close, the internal sensor may be faulty. In that case, connect or bridge pins 3+4 in the device using a metal object. If the circuit now closes, it is highly likely that the internal sensor is faulty. You can replace it. Look under ‘Accessories’ for the replacement internal light sensor